Fellow mountaineers in the summit of Mount Pulag
Guides and Itineraries,  Philippines

UPDATED Guide to Mount Pulag (Playground of the Gods)

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Mount Pulag is the third highest mountain in the Philippines and the highest one in the island region of Luzon. Locals believe that it is the “Playground of the Gods“. It’s also one of the most popular trekking destinations in the country, for beginners and experienced climbers alike.

I trekked this mountain back in 2015. I have friends from previous outreach events who organized the climb via Akiki trail. Here’s my experience including a guide for fellow climbers.

Our climb via Akiki trail

Our group for the Mount Pulag climb consisted of around 20 people, some with no prior experience in mountain climbing. I knew half of them, so we got along quite well.

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We prepared for the climb in advance. Everyone was assigned to bring something. I volunteered to bring a tent good for 5 people. We were also advised on the necessities to bring, including mountain gears and clothing protection from the cold. The temperature in Mount Pulag is testy. Some people have died in the mountain.

We traveled to the jump-off point to the Akiki trail. There, we were briefed at a small ranger station. We were given the option to hire local porters to carry our bags or tents.

We started the trek. The first 30 minutes was welcoming, with scenic views of distant hills and pine tree forests. We continued for 3-4 hours before reaching Eddet River, which was our camping station.

It was cold in the camp, but it was still bearable. However, swimming in the river was impossible.

Pine trees via Akiki trail in Mount Pulag, Philippines
Pine trees via Akiki trail in Mount Pulag, Philippines
View in Akiki trail in Mount Pulag, Philippines
Akiki trail is more difficult than Ambangeg trail but has more rewarding views.
Eddet River via Akiki trail in Mount Pulag, Philippines
Eddet River via Akiki trail in Mount Pulag.

The trek up to the Eddet River was just a warm-up climb.

On the second day, We continued for the 8- to 12-hour ascent to the saddle. I felt my leg strength being pushed to the limits. We were carrying heavy backpacks, since most of us did not hire local porters. Mine weighed 15 kg, not including the large tent.

We stopped a lot to rest. There were three of us ahead of the group and we made up a system called “take 5” or “10 5.” We would take 10 steps, stop, take 5 breaths and repeat. This had been a big help after walking for hours.

Throughout our ascent, we hadn’t come across other groups in the trail. Most climbers prefer the shorter 4-hour trek via the Ambangeg trail. The difference between Akiki and Ambangeg trails is not only the distance but the view. The only word fit to describe the scenery in Akiki trail is “rewarding.” We paused every now and then to marvel at the beautiful surroundings.

Mossy forest in Mount Pulag
Mossy forest.

We then reached a mossy mountain forest. Everything — including the trees and the ground — was covered by moss, except for the pathway. This is one of the most photographed area in the Akiki Trail. It was an eerie, alien-like place.

It was almost sunset when we were granted a view of the sea of clouds. We set up our cameras and admired it. The rest of our friends caught up and we waited for a perfect sunset. There was a beautiful pink hue in the sky. My fellow photographer told me this is what he is waiting for during sunset, when the sun is almost gone and the glow reflecting in the sky forms magnificent colors.

View near the saddle camp in Mount Pulag
View near the saddle camp in Mount Pulag.
Near saddle camp in Mount Pulag, Philippines
Clouds approaching.

The saddle was only 30 minutes away. I didn’t have any clothing protection on my face, so I used a sock to cover my nose and mouth. We wrapped up our things so we could proceed to the next camping station.

We resumed walking and twilight caught up with us. My hands were cold even with double layers of gloves. Visibility was also getting low. Even with headlamps on, it was difficult to see who was in front.

Mount Pulag sea of clouds
The famous sea of clouds in Mount Pulag.

We were cautious not only with the cold, but with safety in the trail. Early that afternoon, one person in our group almost fell down a cliff while taking pictures — thankfully someone saved him on time.

Those who went ahead of us prepared the tents. We arrived and settled for the night.

It was freezing. Sleeping was almost impossible. The wind banged at our tent. A friend lost a flysheet to the wind. After a while, we gathered under a large flysheet to socialize. We talked about trivial things and life. We tried to keep warm, with coffees that immediately turned cold.

At daybreak, we woke up to a foggy camp. In contrast to the 2-3 hours in Ambangeg Trail, it takes only 30 minutes to reach the summit from the saddle camp in Akiki Trail. I covered my camera with my extra gloves. We prepared ourselves and headed toward the summit.

On the way, I saw the hills below which reminded me of how high we’ve climbed up. We arrived at the summit, along with other groups of mountaineers. It rained and then cleared up just as the crowd dispersed. We were left at the summit. The temperature in the summit felt three times colder than in our camp — Maybe because it was January. The air was so thin that I had to catch my breath frequently.

Near summit in Mount Pulag, Philippines
Sloping hills near the summit.
Near summit in Mount Pulag, Philippines
Pink hue in the sky.
A rainbow in Mount Pulag
Majestic hues and a rainbow.

For a few moments the summit had a clearing and then bit by bit the fog crept back. As earlier, we could only see the people in front of us. After a while, we decided to trek down to the saddle camp. Witnessing a clearing in the mountain is purely by luck. Even on a good weather, the fogs easily shift.

After the climb on Akiki Trail, we rode back on top of a jeepney. The view in Benguet has always been a favorite of mine.

Fellow mountaineers in the summit
Fellow mountaineers in the summit.

This is Mount Pulag. Locals called it Mount Pulog. Foreigners would pronounce it Mount Pulag, and it has since been the name of this mountain.

Here’s our video for trekking Mount Pulag, Philippines.

About Mount Pulag, Philippines

Mount Pulag is the third-highest mountain in the Philippines, standing at 9587 ft above sea level. It borders the provinces of Benguet, Ifugao, and Nueva Vizcaya. The peak is located in Kabayan, Benguet.

How to get to Mount Pulag

From Manila, it will take around 10-12 hours to reach Kabayan, Benguet.

Here are the commute directions:

  • From Manila (Pasay or Cubao), ride a bus to Baguio (6-7 hours, P450-700 per person).
  • In Baguio, head to the Dangwa Bus Terminal (taxi fare: about P100). Ride a bus to Kabayan and get off at the DENR Visitor Registration (3 hours, P250 per person). Once at DENR, you need to register and attend an orientation.
  • From DENR, ride a habal-habal to the ranger station of your chosen trail. There are no standard rates, so fare depends on your haggling skills (around P400-500).

Once at the ranger station, you can secure a guide and/or porter. From there, you can proceed to the trek.

Things you need to know

Requirements:

  • There are only limited number of climbers allowed per day. As such, advanced reservations are required particularly during weekends and holidays at the Mount Pulag National Park Management. Register the name of your representative and the number of people in your group. During weekdays, walk-ins are allowed.
  • You also need to present a medical certificate to the DENR Visitor Registration that indicates that you are “fit to hike” or “fit to do physical activities.” If you forget to bring yours, you can find a health center nearby. Cost is P100-150 per certificate.
Mount Pulag signage
At registration of Mount Pulag.

Best months to climb Mount Pulag:

  • Mount Pulag is open all year round. The best time to climb it is during the dry months, from December to May. During the rainy months, transportation to the ranger station may not be possible and the conditions may not be suitable for camping. The coldest months are January to February, when frosts may form at the summit. Temperature can dip as low as 0-5 degrees. April and May offer moderate climate, so if you can’t tolerate the cold this is the best time to go.
  • The weather in the mountain itself is unpredictable, so there is no telling if you will experience a clear sunrise or not.

Others:

  • Mount Pulag is considered a sacred mountain by the Ibaloi Tribe. Drinking alcohol and smoking are not allowed. This is covered in the proper orientation before your trek.

Four trails to summit

There are four trails to Mount Pulag: Ambangeg, Akiki, and Tawangan trails are in Benguet and Ambaguio trail is in Nueva Vizcaya.

  • Ambangeg Trail is a beginner-friendly trail. From the jump-off point, you can reach the summit in 4-5 hours. The route includes rolling hills and open spaces.
  • Akiki Trail is often called the “killer trail” due to its difficulty. It usually takes 2 days to cover. The route includes scenic views, including Eddet River, Marlboro Country and mossy forest.
  • Tawangan Trail is the farthest jump-off to reach the mountain’s summit. The hike takes 10-11 hours. It’s recommended for those who like to do a comprehensive exploration of the mountain. The route includes views of Mt. Tabayoc and four lakes (Tabeo, Ambulalakao, Iculus, and Detanapco), as well as mossy forests and river streams.
  • Ambaguio Trail is the longest trail at 24 kilometers. It’s characterized by assault and mossy trail. It is the least used way to the summit.

What to bring during the trek

Here are the things you should bring:

  • Tent
  • Standard mountain gears
  • Flashlight or headlamp
  • For cold or rainy weather: Dry bag, plastic bag or zip lock (for securing items), jacket, gloves, socks
  • Trail food and water
  • Trash bag

It’s also best to bring a reusable travel bottle (1-3 liters). There are water sources in the mountain where you can get a refill. If you have a sensitive stomach, it’s safe to bring your own water (at least 3 liters).

It’s important to pack light but make sure you carry all the essentials, including protective layers for the cold and/or rain.

At the ranger station, you can rent tents (limited availability) and trekking poles. You can also buy selected mountain gears such as gloves and bonnets.

Tips for climbing Mount Pulag

Sea of clouds in Mount Pulag
Sea of clouds in Mount Pulag.

Here are some valuable tips for climbing Mount Pulag:

  • Make sure that you are physically fit before the climb.
  • Do a warm-up climb before your trek to Mount Pulag. There are a number of easy treks near Manila you can choose from.
  • Mount Pulag is one of the most popular treks in the country and it can get crowded on weekends. It’s best to schedule your climb on weekdays for fewer people.
  • You can hire a local porter to carry your baggage. Not only will this make the climb easier, it will also benefit the income of the local community.
  • Be careful in taking selfies especially in high locations.
  • Follow the LNT principles. Carry your trash with you.

Mt. Pulag itinerary via Akiki-Ambangeg Trail

Here’s a sample itinerary for Mount Pulag for a 3D/2N Akiki-Ambangeg climb.

Day 0 9:30PM – ETD departure from Cubao (Victory Liner terminal)
Day 1 4:15AM – ETA Benguet
6:30AM – Breakfast at an eatery
8:00AM – Arrival at registration area
9:00AM – Start trek via Akiki Trail
10:30AM – Arrival at Eddet River
12:30PM-1:30PM – Arrival at E-Camp; lunch
2:30PM – Arrival at Marlboro Country
3:30PM – Arrival at mossy forest
5:45PM – Arrival at grassland
7:00PM – Arrival at saddle camp; pitch camp, dinner
Day 2 5:00AM – Start trek to Mount Pulag summit
5:30AM – Summit
7:00AM – Trek back to saddle camp; breakfast, pack up
10:00AM – Start descent via Ambangeg Trail
12:30PM – Arrival at habal-habal terminal (riding is optional)
1:00PM – Arrival at ranger station; ride monster jeep, wash up
6:00PM – Back in Baguio City; dinner
10:40PM – Ride bus back to Manila
Day 3 3:00AM – ETA Manila

Budget and expenses

Packaged tours

Nowadays, it’s easiest to book an organized tour to Mount Pulag. It’s easy and hassle free. Moreover, tour agencies reserve slots months ahead, so sometimes it can be difficult to book slots on your own. We don’t have a specific travel agency we can recommend since we did it DIY, but you can find a lot of packages online.

The Ambangeg Trail is the most common offer, which takes 2 days.

DIY tour

Here are the rates for Mount Pulag (Updated as of 2020):

Registration feesDENR registration fee: P220 per person
For foreigners: additional entrance fee of P500-750 per person
Guide feesAmbangeg-Ambangeg Trail (2 days): Starts at P1200 (good up to 1-6 pax)
Akiki-Ambangeg Trail (2-3 days): Starts at P2100 (good up to 1-6 pax)
Porter feesRanger Station to Camp 2: P1000
Ranger Station to Camp 3/Summit: P1200

*Fee is for items 15kg or below / additional P100 per excess kilo.
Ranger Station rental feesTent: P300 (good for 2 pax)
Sleeping bag: P150
Sleeping pad/insulator: P50

Contact

For questions and reservations, you can contact the national park’s management: Mt. Pulag National Park – Facebook page.

Have you climbed to the summit of Mount Pulag in the Philippines?

P.S. Looking for other hiking suggestions? Here are the best multi-day hikes around the world.

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4 Comments

  • Karla Villanueva

    I just want to ask if you know an organiser that can organize a group going to Mt. Pulag for Feb 26 2018

  • Adrenaline Romance

    Nice entry! We climbed Akiki Trail, and it was one of the steepest we’ve ever climbed. So steep, in fact, that Gian had a ten-hour cramp on both legs!

    • Katherine

      I admire both of you! From the looks of it, climbing Mount Pulag is a worthwhile experience, but I don’t think I can – mentally, that is. I feel miserable during mountain trekking. Whenever Hali has a climb, I stay at home. Haha.

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